Patek Philippe replica

Patek Philippe replica

Reference 3970 (1986-2004), into the new century

The Ref. 3970 gradually replaced the iconic 2499 and marked the beginning of a new era for Patek Philippe, with significant updates in both function and design. At its heart was Patek Philippe’s new CH 27-70 Q movement, based on the Lemania 2310 – a legendary column-wheel, manual-winding chronograph movement. First introduced in 1942, the Lemania 2310 stood out for its small size (27 mm x 6.74 mm), reliability, robustness and adaptability. These qualities made it attractive to brands aiming to showcase mechanical craftsmanship during the quartz crisis of the 1980s, and the Lemania 2310 became the basis for many exceptional timepieces of the 1980s, 1990s and beyond. Brands such as Vacheron Constantin, Roger Dubuis, Breguet and Patek Philippe recognised the potential of the movement and incorporated it into their own watches. While Omega originally commissioned Lemania to create the ébauche of its famous Moonwatch caliber 321, it was Patek Philippe that arguably cemented the reputation of the Lemania 2310 by incorporating this movement into some of its most important models, starting with the Ref. 3970.

In keeping with Patek Philippe tradition, the Lemania ébauche (specifically the 2320, an upgraded version of the 2310 with 21 jewels and a swan-neck regulator) was completely disassembled and hand-finished to meet Patek Philippe’s exacting standards. During the transformation, the swan-neck regulator was removed to create the CH 27-70 Q movement, and a perpetual calendar module was added, increasing the number of jewels to 24. In addition to this, Patek Philippe also adopted its signature polished cover on the column wheel.

The story of the Ref. 3970 spans two decades of production, marked by four distinct series. The watch features a 36 mm x 13.5 mm case with round chronograph pushers on either side of the crown, elegantly stepped extended lugs and a concave bezel. Its dial layout exudes a classic feel, with three slightly recessed subdials. At 3 o'clock, the chronograph's 30-minute totalizer includes a cleverly integrated new leap year indicator. The date and moon phase display are at 6 o'clock, while the running seconds subdial with a new 24-hour indicator is at 9 o'clock. Two windows below the 12 o'clock scale display the day of the week and month. Most Ref. 3970 models feature six applied faceted baton hour markers, with small square markers at 3, 5, 7 and 9 o'clock indicating the hours, and a unique double hour marker at 12 o'clock.

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The high production of the Ref. 3970 (estimated to be over 3,000 pieces) explains the occasional mixing of design elements between different series. It’s worth noting that Patek Philippe didn’t divide its products into series, but rather it was used by collectors as a way to identify and learn about specific products. However, understanding these series is crucial to understanding how Philippe Stern guided Patek Philippe through this period, as they showcase advances in production technology and aesthetics – so we start with the first 100 examples of the Ref. 3970 made in 1986.

The first series of the Ref. 3970 were only made in yellow gold and featured a snap-on caseback. The unique feature of these models was their darker chronograph subdials, creating an almost two-tone effect that distinguished them from subsequent versions.

The second series, produced between 1986 and 1991, featured a water-resistant screw-down caseback with the option of a sapphire crystal screw-down caseback. This series expanded the case materials to include yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum, the latter two being the rarest. In total, approximately 650 pieces were produced during this production run. Updates to the dials included the removal of the two-tone effect, giving a more uniform look. The leaf-shaped hands of the first series were retained, but changes to the fonts for the day and month dials made these indications more eye-catching, although arguably some refinement was lost. During this period, Patek Philippe also launched the Ref. 3971, a variation of the same watch with a snap-on sapphire crystal caseback.

The third series of the Ref. 3970 was produced between 1989 and 1995, with approximately 1,350 pieces in yellow, rose, white gold, and platinum. These models were fitted with solid and sapphire screw-down casebacks. The dial underwent several updates during this series. Baton-shaped hands replaced the previous leaf-shaped design, while the fitted faceted baton hour markers were sharpened to a pointed shape. In addition, the main dial was made brighter, enhancing the contrast and readability of the printed markings. Curiously, the small dot separating the 31st and 1st of each month on the date subdial was removed.

The Series IV 3970 was produced between 1994 and 2004, with approximately 2,000 pieces produced. Aesthetically, it is very similar to the Series III, but with one update – the introduction of a folding clasp that matches the case material (goodbye pin buckle). Series IV Ref. 3970s can be distinguished by case and movement number, giving collectors another way to identify these late models.

During the production run of the Ref. 3970, the series produced many extraordinary timepieces, including specially commissioned watches towards the end of its production run. Even after the Ref. 3970 was officially retired from the Patek Philippe catalog, custom pieces and limited editions continued to emerge. A notable example is the London Edition (Ref. 3970ER-028) and the Saatchi Edition (Ref. 3970EP-046), which were created for the brand’s 175th anniversary in 2015. These rose gold and platinum black dial timepieces feature a tachymeter scale, a single Breguet numeral at 12 o'clock, and dot markers for the remaining hour markers. In addition, several unique pieces have been commissioned by renowned collectors such as Eric Clapton and Michael Ovitz, former president of the Walt Disney Company. There are likely other rare pieces, each reflecting the style of its owner, that have yet to be discovered.

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While the relatively high production run of the Ref. 3970 may put off those seeking the ultimate in exclusivity, it is still an exceptional watch. Before transitioning to its successor, the Ref. 5970, it is worth noting another rare model from the same era, the Cushion Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5020. Produced in the 1990s, only about 250 of this watch remain, making it another rare gem in Patek Philippe history.

Reference 5020 (1994-2002), TV-Shaped Model
Opinions vary as to Patek Philippe’s motivations for launching this watch. Some argue that Patek Philippe needed a “newer” alternative to the Ref. 3970 that would resonate with a new generation of collectors. Others point to the Stern family’s fondness for cushion-shaped timepieces – also seen in pieces like the Ref. 5940, 5950, 5951 and even the more recent Cubitus series. There may be truth in both these claims. Nonetheless, the Ref. 5020 did not gain widespread acclaim upon its launch, resulting in low production runs and cementing its status as one of Patek Philippe’s rarest modern perpetual calendar references.

The Ref. 5020’s distinctive TV-shaped case measures 37 mm x 45 mm; it is primarily made in yellow, rose and white gold, and is offered with both solid and transparent casebacks. A few are made in platinum, with solid casebacks only. Most of the dials showcase Breguet hands and numerals, but some unique dials feature alternative designs. The dials retain Patek Philippe’s traditional layout – two windows below 12 o’clock display the day and month, the moon phase is integrated into the date subdial at 6 o’clock, and the subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock mirror the functions of the subdials on the Ref. 3970 – and both models are driven by the same manual-winding Lemania caliber 27-70 Q, which is also used in the Ref. 5970, the 3970’s successor.